Cosme is one of the “new, trendy, hip” places on all the Lima food lists. It emphasizes sustainability and is decor is reused, repurposed, and recycled. The ceiling is decorated with disposable soft drink bottles filled with brightly colored water. The walls are decorated with soda bottle caps. The restaurant’s mascot is the local vulture, while not known for its looks it’s an essential part of the ecosystem, scavenging and cleaning up after others.
The dishes are an eclectic mix, fundamentally Peruvian, but with nods to other cultures. We had the mollejas (sweetbreads), a “cebiche” that did not have raw fish, a 36 hour braised beef, and the fish of the day.
The sweetbreads were great, grilled enough to have developed crispy browned flavours, but still tender and creamy inside. The were served with a sweet brown sauce on a vegetable puree, but you almost don’t notice because the sweetbreads have so much of your attention.
The cebiche was, as the waiter warned us, non-traditional. It was more like a chicharron, breaded deep fried cubes of fish served with a sauce that reminded me of buffalo chicken wing sauce. The sauce was tart, buttery, and spicy. The cebiche was served with traditional choclo (Peruvian giant corn) and sweet potato, though the sweet potato was grilled batons rather than boiled rounds. I thought the dish was delicious, but calling it cebiche is definitely misleading.
We had the fish of the day. It was charela, a firm white fish related to sea bass. It’s served grilled on a bed of chickpeas and demi-glace. The chickpeas were great, but the demi-glace was a bit thick for the dish, thinning it a bit might have worked better.
For dessert, they had a special lucuma lava cake with chocolate ice cream. Now normally I am sick to death of fondant cakes. It’s been done. But I’m also a sucker for lucuma, and was wondering if they could do something interesting with the form. It was pretty much exactly what you’d expect if I said “lucuma lava cake” but it was delicious!
I love the concept, I like the decor, the food is good, and the sweetbreads are great!