Amoramar is another gem tucked away in an urban environment. On an
otherwise unremarkable back street in Barranco, you go through a door
and into an oasis. A tree lined patio with tables under a screened
roof. You walk past the big wood fired brick oven where the
parrillero is roasting a cochinillo lechal (suckling piglet.)
The menu is modern Peruvian with sections for Entradas, Wok, Pesca,
Granja, and “Para Endulzar” We decided to have two entrees, a fish,
and a dessert.
They started by bringing us an abreboca (amuse/appetiser) of pork
and plantain crisp with an asian salsa. It was tasty and helped make
up for our decision to not have the roast piglet.
We had seen Tiradito Grana Padano on the menu and had been bemused
and intrigued. A tiradito of cheese? Probably not. A tiradito with
cheese? That almost as strange. How can you pair raw fish with cheese?
Ok, we had to try it. It was a tiradito of seared scallop and white
fish dressed with a leche de tigre (“tiger’s milk” juice for
ceviche) emulsion, garnished with radish, avocado puree, and grana
padano crisps. It actually worked pretty well.
We tried their Conchas al Fuego (grilled scallops). They were served
in the shell very hot on a bed of rock salt. The seasoning was asian
lemon butter and crispy garlic. It was a bit sweet, nice but not
extraordinary, but grilled scallops are always a treat.
We’ve been seeing paiche on menus a lot in Lima. It’s the second
largest fresh water fish in the world. Mature paiche can be over 3
metres long, and over 250 kg. Native to the Amazon river they are
under pressure in the wild, but have been successfully farmed in
Brazil. I think of it a little like the barramundi of South America
only a lot bigger. This was grilled paiche over asparagus and potato
puree. The paiche was delicious, firm and tasty, asparagus was fresh,
sweet, and not overcooked.
Finally we shared a Isla de Frutos del Bosque “Island of fruits of
the forest.” Is “fruits of the forest” some sort of code for
strawberries and blueberries? Every time I see “fruits of the forest”
it ends up being strawberries (not from the forest) and blueberries
(also not from the forest.) Besides the fresh fruits the dessert
included chocolate soil, and some sort of sweet brown gelatine and a
sweet strawberry sauce over the top. The strawberries were underripe,
the tan jello was boring, and the strawberry sauce was too
sweet. Amoramar needs to raise their dessert game…
Overall the setting was excellent, the dishes were well done but not
particularly innovative. The suckling pig looked great though!