Cosme is one of the “new, trendy, hip” places on all the Lima food
lists. It emphasizes sustainability and is decor is reused,
repurposed, and recycled. The ceiling is decorated with disposable
soft drink bottles filled with brightly colored water. The walls are
decorated with soda bottle caps. The restaurant’s mascot is the local
vulture, while not known for its looks it’s an essential part of the
ecosystem, scavenging and cleaning up after others.
The dishes are an eclectic mix, fundamentally Peruvian, but with nods
to other cultures. We had the mollejas (sweetbreads), a “cebiche”
that did not have raw fish, a 36 hour braised beef, and the fish of
The sweetbreads were great, grilled enough to have developed crispy
browned flavours, but still tender and creamy inside. The were served
with a sweet brown sauce on a vegetable puree, but you almost don’t
notice because the sweetbreads have so much of your attention.
The cebiche was, as the waiter warned us, non-traditional. It was more
like a chicharron, breaded deep fried cubes of fish served with a
sauce that reminded me of buffalo chicken wing sauce. The sauce was
tart, buttery, and spicy. The cebiche was served with traditional
choclo (Peruvian giant corn) and sweet potato, though the sweet
potato was grilled batons rather than boiled rounds. I thought the
dish was delicious, but calling it cebiche is definitely misleading.
We had the fish of the day. It was charela, a firm white fish
related to sea bass. It’s served grilled on a bed of chickpeas and
demi-glace. The chickpeas were great, but the demi-glace was a bit
thick for the dish, thinning it a bit might have worked better.
For dessert, they had a special lucuma lava cake with chocolate ice
cream. Now normally I am sick to death of fondant cakes. It’s been
done. But I’m also a sucker for lucuma, and was wondering if they
could do something interesting with the form. It was pretty much
exactly what you’d expect if I said “lucuma lava cake” but it was
I love the concept, I like the decor, the food is good, and the
sweetbreads are great!