Malabar is one of Lima’s “nice” restaurants. Business people,
tourists, people with money, in the financial district. Doing creative
things with sustainable Amazonian ingredients. We went because we’d
heard good things about the food and ingredients but were a little
suprised at the setting and ambience. This seems like a place to take
But the menu is all about the ingredients. The owner Pedro Miguel
Schiaffino also owns āmaZ, which also focuses on Peruvian Amazonian
food, but Malabar uses those ingredients in the service of fine
dining. The emphasis is on the ingredients, not flashy technique, but
the technique is still there. The menu includes some interesting
ferments both in the dishes and in the drinks. Kombucha with local
herbs for example.
There are challenging dishes, he’s not afraid to take risks, I’ve
never had giant Amazonian river snail before but they were delicious,
chewy and firm strong in umami but not overpowering. The cuy (guinea
pig) was particularly well done, juicy, and tender with especially
crispy skin. The inclusion of succulents in the green salad was a
refreshingly crunchy touch.
The staff was quite friendly and helpful with good recommendations for
the rest of our trip. I’d happily go again.